Even though I'm never the biggest fan of the Saint Laurent Runway shows, there are always ideas that stand out. Personally I always think - apart from the styling - that the pieces themselves hide incredible details and craftsmanship. This seasons jackets were incredibly rich - major crush as well on the destroyed hems on all the shirts.
Gucci is climbing to the top thanks to Alessandro Michele.
Another proof how much youth and a new vision a new artistic director can inject and turn a dusty (sorry I'm not sorry) brand around - from dusty to shiny; Gucci has become one of my top five brands to look forward to each season next to Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Prada, Dior & Acne Studios.
J.W. Anderson rarely disappoints these days - his resort collection is bringing together multiple patterns and influences to the point where you can actually ask yourself: Is this Fashion or is this Art? dots, transparency, flowers, metallics and leather ruffles on wedge boots - it all comes together perfectly and creates an arty, daring yet wearable explosion of colors , shapes and materials.
Next one up should be Loewe if Mr. Anderson keeps on going like this for his Cruise collections.
When it comes to Nicolas Ghesquière, there is no such sentiment of fear before a show - you know sometimes, designers just terribly mess up. He just never does. The only thing there is before a show is a kind of joyful anticipation of what is about to happen next, what journey he's going to take us on next - this time, the setting of the Cruise '16 show already announced something quite extraordinary. The Bob and Dolores Hope Estate, this architectural monument in the middle of the Palm Springs desert is something else. Perfectly logical to make the inhabitants of this rather futuristic estate a thing apart as well, even before the show, creatures were waiting for you, eerily peering down from a balcony while the guests walked into the location - a quiet yet effective way to say that you officially entered someone else's territory. Now all we had to wait for were the inhabitants of this quiet place in the middle of nowhere. This desert. With the cruise shows travelling around the world from Seoul to Dubai to Monaco or Cannes, it has become this weird tradition to take the guests to more than just a show - it's an entire trip, organized in a way to make you feel that you are part of an entire world. it was at the Bob Hope estate that day that the trip closed like a full circle, exactly when the sun slowly drifted below the horizon bringing the day to an end. Rianne van Rompaey opened the show, she walks around the house with headphones on. First thought: cool, headphones. That's new, at the same time we've seen it at Dolce Gabbana. So far so good. She walks out firmly, in an almost angry way, takes them off and just turns on the music. We are on! - the girls are out. What she heard now everyone can hear, what happened inside the house is visible to the public now. The lengths are between micro and maxi, minimalistic vs. heavily hand embroidered dresses, it's all about contrasts but despite them the girls fit in perfectly with their background. It's this weird thing about the american dream, the exaggeration of normal proportions. The long skirts are flowy and the shoes are flat - suitable to walk in the sand and climb around. Lots of studs around belt details heavily hanging from the hips and low waisted skirts - comfortable fantasy because lets be honest: there was a bit of game of thrones in there. Nicolas Ghesquière has the talent to take us to the future (as he did a lot with Balenciaga) and he took us to the past with Vuitton before. With this collection something else became clear: already for FW15 the lines became more blurry of what is futuristic or retro - the elements were mixed together in a never before seen way - you simply cannot say what it is because there has never been something like that. It's this coherent mix of ideas, preferences and influences that give birth to something that doesn't need a timeframe to exist - the timeframe is created by the clothes. What before only Prada managed to do, Ghesquière made it happen as well: after all these years, for the first time it feels like his world fully exists - on his own. The influences are pushed to the most abstract yet simple version of themselves, creating something like a new generation, a new dimension. Let's not call it retro, let's not call it futuristic, let's say that right now, it feels like it's something you want, you crave. Let's call it the Power of Moment Now.
Welcome to that league apart Mr. Ghesquière. pictures from style.com, Juergen Teller for Louis Vuitton & purple.fr