It's been a while now. Yes, it's been a while since Hedi Slimane started teasing the fashion world and got some major attention from changing the name of the brand Yves Saint Laurent. From now on it should go back to the basics. Back to "Saint Laurent Paris", the start of a new era with a new designer to reinterpret the history of the legendary house. Oh it was all major drama - the black packaging, the dissolution of the oh-so-famous logo of the brand, the announcement of something groundbreaking. All the provoking, good or bad, and then there was the first show.
True, there was the smoking, the mousselines, the pussy bows, the tassels, hey, all a little hint of YSL and a hell of a lot of Hedi Slimane. A lot of noise, Daft Punk and a huge show for what? Sure if you're into Rachel Zoe and some Sixties inspired long black dresses with floppy hats you're in the right place. A nice rocky bohemian girl. But that's something truly groundbreaking? The highly anticipated 'self-supported' comeback? What a disappointment.
I often have strong emotions right away when I see shows or garments. Often it takes one, two or three assessments for me to really judge something. Not with the heart but with the head. I tried and tried and tried with Mr. Slimane for Saint Laurent and yeah that silk blouse I wore during a shooting was nice (apart from the fact that it falls apart when you move your arm). Finally I got used to that new universe of Saint Laurent. I tried to forget the subtle, thoughtful, respectful and purely beautiful version of the brand that was when Stefano Pilati was still in charge. Until I saw the last show.
Believe me with that one I tried.
The second womenswear collection (after the nice series of black and white portraits of Sky Ferreira teasing us the pre-fall collection) surely was a good and robust continuation of the menswear show. Where the models have been traded for mostly singers and other 'übercool' looking dudes. Who needs models anyway right? Hedi is doing everything "differently", but it seems more out of principle and provocation rather then trying to honestly communicate his vision . It's sad that so quickly it just gets boring.
Decidedly I was happy to see some real models on the runway for the womenswear show. As I said, if I can say one good thing about collection, it would be that at least now the Saint Laurent guy found his perfect girl. I'd say that they both equally love buying their stuff at Topshop and combine it with the remnants of their parents old wardrobe. And if after all this if they have some money left for some serious shopping, then they can afford that super nice looking leather jacket on top. "Thats the way I dress anyway" somebody was quoted on style.com. That feedback probably brought it to the point. This season, YSL was buried and the new grungy Saint Laurent girl took the lead. Only, it's sad to think that this new lead led us straight back to the past - to what every teenager knows and had known for years - vintage stores and "nonchalant" styling is a secure route to "looking cool". This generation, with Mr. Slimane - we can only hope that his clientele has a slightly more bloated bank account if they chose his brand to complete this generic look.
Hedi Slimane obviously plays a lot on the attention, the media, the shock effect, the music (because it's oh-so-inspiring to him). The big show. No wonder that for the campaign this season with Saskia de Brauw dressed as a boy and looking like a Beatle, and Anja Rubik exposing her bare breasts where just not enough.
Shock- Rocker Marilyn Mansons face on superzoom with a hint of a perfecto jacket makes much more of a disturbing impression... coupled with the still so destroyed, messed up Courtney Love striking a very druggy pose.
If thats what the elegance of the brand and the history of the house has dropped to, what is going to be shocking enough next? I'd say that, without offense after Courtney Love you can't really sink much lower. The game of Hedi Slimane with YSL - let's see what he's going to let us experience next season.
As you all know I'm very straight forward. Its something that I qualify as a positive characteristic. There's nothing worse than people without an opinion, but I thought a lot about whether i should write this article or not. It might seem like I'm just absolutely panning the brand or that I don't see the good, but I really tried to get into that whole new "vibe" of Hedi. The menswear colletions at Dior were brilliant and he's proven with his shows that at the least he is a good stylist. But what I personally hold against him the most is the lack of respect for the history of the brand. Designers come and go, times change and so does the brand. Dior by Galliano is missed. Dior by Raf Simons is surely totally different. Nicolas Ghesquière was such a perfect match for Balenciaga that everyone was deeply saddened when he announced his departure from the brand, but Alexander Wang has now proven that he's on a very very good way with his beautiful, solid debut collection. It's all in the respect of the history. Every designer has their own signature, but it's about mixing it with what has been there for decades. It shows respect and knowledge on how to deliver a solid collection, even with all these obstacles in the way. Mr. Simons and Mr. Wang succeeded - but Mr. Slimane? He just seems to have taken over completely, and thats what saddens me the most.
Who knows, maybe one day the "good old" will come alive again through his collections - and by "good old" I certainly don't mean the Second Hand look.
And now let's share some wisdom: Ain't Saint Laurent without Yves? What do you think?
all pictures via style.com
